Our Complete Guide to Where to Stay in Florence

Florence is a compact city, where the vast majority of things to see and do can be found within a small radius. So the question of ‘where to stay in Florence’ is not so much about how to reach the major sights as it is about finding the right neighborhood for you.

I have stayed in Florence many times, in everything from tiny apartments to luxury hotels, so have plenty of experience in choosing the best options.

Unless you choose somewhere really far away from central Florence, you can’t go too wrong. However there are definitely some better areas to search in, particularly if you aren’t staying long in the city.

The neighborhood of Oltrarno will always be the first choice for me when deciding where to stay in Florence. Having stayed in a few different places here on recent trips, I find it offers the best balance of everything I want.

Oltrarno is across the Arno river from the historic center; the name literally means ‘the other side of the Arno’. It covers a fairly wide stretch of the city, including the districts of San Frediano, San Niccolò and Santo Spirito, and is the home of the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens.

Originally this area was home to small villages that were outside of the original city of Florence, which was on only one side of the river. As Florence expanded, Oltrarno came to be included in the larger city walls but remained a quieter, more rural area.

This made it popular with the medieval nobility who wanted to escape the busy city but remain close by, with many estates, palaces and ornamental gardens established through the 15th and 16th centuries. The Medici’s took over and expanded the Pitti Palace, connecting it to the political heart of the city in Piazza della Signoria via the Vasari Corridor.

While Oltrarno has become more built up, it retains that sense of separation from the city center. Medieval streets intersect with piazzas and churches, lined with small shops, restaurants and bars. I love it because Oltrarno feels like a place locals still live.

Why Oltrarno?

Despite being across the river, Oltrarno is still close to the city center. Depending on exactly where you are staying, the Florence Duomo is only around 15-30 minutes walk, and that walk takes you through historic streets and across one of the many bridges that span the Arno river.

This means you can reach central Florence and all the main sights easily, but also leave when you’re finished sightseeing for aperitivo and dinner in more authentic places.

Oltrarno tends to be quieter overall, so if you’re a light sleeper this is a good area – as long as you aren’t staying on Piazza Santo Spirito which stays busy late into the evening, particularly at weekends.

This is also a good place to stay in Florence if you’re traveling with kids, as there are places for them to play and run around away from the crowds. Piazzale Michelangelo is close by on top of the hill above the neighborhood. Local life continues here pretty much undisturbed by tourists so you’ll find plenty of supermarkets, cafes and family-friendly restaurants too.

Some of Florence’s best shopping and dining options are in Oltrarno, which is still a place where artisan workshops and creators gather. Small boutiques and fun restaurants are everywhere, with more of a modern feel. This is where to come if you have had your fill of traditional Florentine cuisine and fancy something a little different.

Types of Accommodation in Oltrarno

The majority of the accommodation options in Oltrarno are either small B&B’s or self-catering apartments. There are a few hotel options but not many compared to Florence’s historic center.

This means Oltrarno is great if you’re on a budget, as you can get a really nice apartment and cook for yourself a few times. I find that getting breakfast items alone can save me quite a bit as I always end up getting carried away when presented with all the lovely pastries if I go out!

If you do want to splurge and really treat yourself, the 5* Hotel Lungarno is the place to go. Right on the river and overlooking the Ponte Vecchio, this is a fabulous place to stay with elegant hotel rooms and stunning views of the city.

One thing to mention is that most of the buildings in Oltrarno do not have elevators. Most apartments or B&B’s will be reached by stairs only, so always check the description before booking if you will struggle with steps.

Also, most of the Oltrarno neighborhood is part of Florence’s ZTL which means you cannot drive or park here automatically if you have a rental car. Sometimes your accommodation can register your vehicle to avoid you getting fines, but this is something to keep in mind. Parking options are limited and often have to be paid on top of the room/apartment cost.

When most people are looking at where to stay in Florence, they start by focusing on the Centro Storico, the historic center. The central location and easy access to all of the city’s attractions makes it a popular area to stay in, but it may not be suitable for everyone.

Centered on the Florence cathedral and its iconic red brick dome, the historic center is the true heart of the city. In this neighborhood you’ll be within easy walking distance of not only the Duomo, Giotto’s Campanile and the Baptistery, but also the Uffizi Gallery, Piazza della Signoria, Palazzo Vecchio, Ponte Vecchio and the Bargello Museum.

In this area you’ll find grand palaces, beautiful churches, plenty of shopping and no end of restaurants. You’ll also find crowds of people exploring Florence year-round – it should come as no surprise that this neighborhood is the busiest by far!

Why the Historic Center?

I have stayed in the Centro Storico a few times and by far the main attraction is the close proximity to everything. Stepping out in the morning and being just a few minutes walk from all the amazing things to do is very special.

You can walk pretty much everywhere, and easily reach a tram, bus or taxi if you’re going a little further. It’s also very fun to stay in a converted old building, sometimes even a former palace, particularly if you love history like me.

This is the area I stay in when I visit around the holidays, because the crowds are thinner and the Christmas lights make everything seem extra magical!

If it’s your first time in Florence or you only have a few days in the city, your stay in Florence should be focused here. You will save so much time being so close to everything, and the wow factor of being so centrally located is worth the busy streets.

Generally I would not recommend staying here if you have young children as there aren’t really any spaces for them to play or run around safely. The noise and crowds (plus the heat in the summer) can be overwhelming, and families seem to have a better experience staying outside this area.

Types of Accommodation in the Historic Center

There is a good mix of accommodation to choose from in the Centro Storico. You will find everything from a small boutique hotel to luxury 5* converted palaces, simple guest rooms to fancy B&B’s, so you can tailor your search to your preferences.

Prices are generally higher in the historic center and availability is more limited, so definitely get your reservation confirmed as soon as you can to avoid being disappointed.

I would not stay here if you are traveling by car as most of the neighborhood is pedestrianized, is covered by the ZTL (limited traffic zone) and parking is basically non-existent, even at the higher end hotels.

Another consideration is the noise level. If you are a light sleeper, make sure your accommodation has decent windows and is on a higher floor. In summer in particular, the neighborhood is extremely busy and loud most of the day and well into the evening.

My pro tip for accommodation in the historic center is to find somewhere with a terrace or outdoor space. Being able to sit and have a glass of wine at night or cup of coffee in the morning with a view of the city is magical! Many hotels have rooftop terraces, such as Il Tornabuoni or the Westin Excelsior, and often you can book rooms with a balcony or terrace as part of an apartment.

Sharing the name of the city’s train station, the neighborhood of Santa Maria Novella is to the north-west of the Centro Storico.

The Santa Maria Novella train station is the main stop for the high speed trains coming from Rome, Naples, Venice and Milan. So, if you’re only stopping in Florence briefly, this is the most convenient location to stay in.

Why Santa Maria Novella?

Generally I only recommend staying in Santa Maria Novella if you are on a budget, have an early train/are getting in late or have a very short stay in Florence.

The accommodation here is on the cheaper side for the city, so you can find some great deals even with short notice. Staying close to the train station if you’re doing a quick visit makes sense, saving time when you arrive and before leaving. This is also applicable if you’re planning on getting out and doing multiple day trips in Tuscany or beyond.

You will have to walk a bit further to reach the main sights here but you can get on one of the local buses to help you get around.

It’s not my top recommendation for families but there are some good apartments, plenty of shops and laid-back restaurants, plus the huge Parco delle Cascine is close by. The area also tends to be quieter (away from the main roads) so you should have less noise-related issues to deal with.

Types of Accommodation in the Santa Maria Novella Neighborhood

In Santa Maria Novella you’ll find a lot more hotel options, ranging from those catering to business travelers to the super luxury. There are even a few with a swimming pool which are unusual in Florence! You will also find plenty of modern apartments and a few B&B’s, but this neighborhood is much more hotel-focused than others in the city.

I love the Grand Hotel Minerva which overlooks the piazza and Santa Maria Novella church and has an excellent rooftop bar, and the Palazzo dal Borgo is also a great choice.

I do not suggest accommodation in the streets immediately adjacent to the station when people ask where to stay in Florence. It is not dangerous, but as with all major cities, the area surrounding the train station is not the most pleasant, especially if you are walking to/from the station late at night or very early in the morning.

When I have stayed here, I have focused my search for accommodation on the Piazza Santa Maria Novella and the streets behind it, down towards the Arno river. The streets closer to the Basilica San Lorenzo and the Medici Chapels (which are between the Duomo and the train station) are also a good place to search in.

On the opposite side of the historic center is the neighborhood of Santa Croce, a popular choice for where to stay in Florence. With the large Piazza di Santa Croce and the basilica of the same name at its heart, this is one of the oldest parts of Florence.

I like to think of Santa Croce as a cross between Oltrarno and the Centro Storico. Locals still live here and there are lots of great shops and restaurants, but it is busier and more expensive like the historic center. It’s a good option therefore if you want somewhere closer to the action than Oltrarno.

This area has long been important to the Florentines. The Basilica di Santa Croce is one of the city’s principal churches and is the burial place for some of Florence’s most famous residents. Galileo Galilei, Lorenzo Ghiberti, Macchiavelli and Michelangelo himself were all laid to rest here, demonstrating how important this church was, and still is.

You can easily walk to the Duomo and the Uffizi Gallery, but other sights like the Accademia and Boboli Gardens are a little further away. You are however still close to the Arno river and the large Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio, which is a foodie heaven with everything from fresh fruit to cheeses, pasta, meat, wine and more.

Why Santa Croce?

Santa Croce is the most universally appealing neighborhood in Florence. It has a great location, close to almost everything you could want to see.

The basilica alone is reason to be close by, but the multitude of bars, restaurants, stores and workshops means you could spend your entire trip wandering the local streets and leave happy!

The only drawbacks are that it can be very busy here, particularly in the summer and also when the Christmas market in the piazza is running in late November through early December. There are also not many open spaces or greenery, and if you have young kids with you I would suggest staying elsewhere.

Be wary of the noise levels during those busy periods, and make sure your accommodation has proper soundproof windows – you will definitely need these if you’re anywhere near the main piazzas.

Types of Accommodation in Santa Croce

You will primarily find self-catering accommodation and B&B’s in the Santa Croce area, although there are some hotels along the river as well. I like these smaller places here as it feels like you are really part of the local area even if only temporarily.

If you’re looking for something more luxurious, you have plenty of options too. The modern boutique hotel Plaza Hotel Lucchesi has a rooftop pool with views of the Duomo and Florence skyline, or you can go all out in the 5* Palazzo Firenze.

Generally you’ll find more spacious rooms and facilities that are a bit more modern here. Budget accommodation is harder to find but if you focus on the streets away from the river you may find some lower cost rooms.

The final entry on my list of where to stay in Florence is the neighborhood of San Marco. This was where I stayed on my first trip to Florence and it immediately made an impression.

San Marco covers the area north east of the historic center, where the University of Florence is located as well as the world-renowned Accademia Galleries with Michelangelo’s David on display. It is less historic, less manicured and less visited, making it the ideal place to stay if you’re looking for a more authentic Florence experience.

Students and locals live here so there are lots of great places to eat and shop, plus it’s much quieter. Apart from the Accademia or the Mercato Centrale tourists don’t tend to explore the neighborhood but there is a lot to see here, so it’s an excellent area if you’ve been to Florence before.

Piazza San Marco is just a few minutes walk from the Accademia, itself very close to the San Marco Monastery and Museum, the Florence National Archeology Museum, and Piazza della Santissima Annunziata with the basilica of the same name. These are all fascinating sights but get a fraction of the visitors that other places in Florence do, so they are much more peaceful.

Why San Marco?

As well as having some amazing places to visit, San Marco is an excellent choice for where to stay in Florence. It is relatively close to the historic center, and there are good public transport connections for the parts of the city that are a bit further away. Parking is more straightforward and you can avoid the ZTL’s here also.

The streets are quieter with a more relaxed atmosphere, there are tons of great places to eat (including one of my absolute favorite restaurants; Fuoco Matto) and you can time your visit to the Accademia to avoid the worst of the crowds.

This is also a lovely area for families with plenty of outdoor space. The Botanical Gardens are close by along with multiple other parks so even in the summer there are places to escape the heat.

The only reason I wouldn’t recommend San Marco is if you have limited time in the city. Yes, it’s not that far away, but if you want to maximize your time in Florence, you’re better off staying closer to the city center.

Types of Accommodation in San Marco

San Marco is all about smaller hotels, B&B’s and some self-catering options. You’re more likely to find affordable options with outdoor space, gardens and even potentially a swimming pool compared to anywhere else near the center. If you go self-catering there are plenty of local shops to purchase essentials from.

If you want to go all out, the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze is in two converted palaces and on the edge of a beautiful botanical garden, the Giardino della Gherardesca. However most accommodation options in San Marco are on the affordable side so you don’t have to splurge to stay here!